For the second UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in a row, the four gold medals were claimed by athletes from Mongolia and Switzerland. In fact, three of the four winners in Champagny-en-Vanoise three weeks ago emerged victorious during the first ever UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Longmont, Colorado (USA).
Furthermore, three of this weekend’s male and female lead and speed winners are now top of the World Tour rankings. Following four rounds in Asia, Europe and in North America, the final verdicts will be decided in Edmonton, Canada next weekend.
The inaugural UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Longmont, the first held in the USA since 2019, was organized by the Longmont Climbing Collective and supported by the American Alpine Club (AAC). The event welcome nearly 90 athletes from 14 countries.
However, while the headlines were claimed by the World Tour’s in form athletes, climbers from eight countries made the podium.
Image credit: UIAA/Jean Jeanneret
Lead: Double Swiss triumph
Having won his first ever World Cup in Champagny in Round 3, Switzerland’s Benjamin Bosshard has clearly developed a taste for success. On a short, technical route, he was able to hold off a strong challenge from Team France who saw Louna Ladevant, Virgile Devin and Tristan Ladevant position second, third and fourth respectively. The men’s final welcomed climbers from five countries – Canada, the United States and United Kingdom were also represented in the last eight.
Livestream Replay: Lead Finals
It sets up a thrilling final round in Edmonton next weekend with Louna Ladevant still in with a chance of reclaiming the World Tour title. However, Bosshard holds what appears to be a relatively secure 59-point lead. Tristan Ladevant will hope to move into the World Tour podium places with the current incumbent Younggeon Lee unlikely to climb again this season.
Current World Tour standings:
(1) B Bosshard (SUI) 316 pts; (2) L Ladevant (FRA) 257 pts; (3) Y Lee (KOR) 230 pts
The women’s competition has been dominated by one athlete: Switzerland’s Sina Goetz. She now has four wins from four World Cups. In Longmont, she topped the route in a rapid four minutes, 30 seconds. Goetz needed to be agile as her nearest rival Marianne van der Steen also topped, finishing in just under six minutes. Poland’s Olga Kosek showed her versatility claiming bronze having finished third in the speed event in Champagny. Going into this season, Goetz had just one World Cup to her name. She now has five and has the World Tour title secured. Will anyone be able to deny her a clean sweep next weekend in Edmonton?
Current World Tour standings:
(1) S Goetz (SUI) 400 pts; (2) M Van der Steen (NED) 262 pts; (3) C Shirley (USA) 230 pts
Speed: Mongolia sets the standard
Mongolia once again emerged with the speed gold medals although it was not the same pair of athletes who triumphed this weekend.
Selenge Nyamdoo claimed the women’s event – her third gold medal in a row to continue an amazing season where she has one silver and three victories. She registered the fastest time in the final of 12.64 to see off the USA’s Catalina Shirley, 13.64, and Aneta Louzecka, the reigning world champion from Czechia, who ascended in 13.93. Shirley is having some season – that was her second silver medal to add to the gold she claimed in Cheongsong.
Current World Tour standings:
(1) S Nyamdoo (MGL) 380 pts; (2) C Shirley (USA) 311 pts; (3) A Louzecka (CZE) 240 pts
Livestream Replay: Speed Finals
The men’s speed competition is the most open of all the disciplines going into the final round in Edmonton. With a pulsating time of 7.43, Kherlen Nyamdoo finally struck gold after a bronze and two silvers this season. That was enough to see off his compatriot Mandakhbayar Chuluunbaatar who clocked 8.67. Samuel Serra, USA, won his first ever UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup medal, taking bronze in 9.07. Just nine points separate the two Mongolian teammates in the standings. Edmonton promises fireworks on the speed wall.
Current World Tour standings:
(1) M Chuluunbaatar (MGL) 297 pts; (2) K Nyamdoo (MGL) 288 pts; (3) M Safdarian (IRN) 255 pts
Despite challenging ice conditions caused by weather and equipment issues, the Longmont Climbing Collective hosted an impressive first-time event. While the speed finals faced unexpected complications, the UIAA alongside the local organizers adapted the format – from duel to single, ensuring the finals were a success. The UIAA extends its gratitude to the athletes and organizers for their resilience, sportsmanship, and dedication, making for an unforgettable weekend of climbing.
A preview of the final UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup of the season, and the World Tour decider, in Edmonton, Canada will, be published on Thursday 27 February.
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Image credit: UIAA/Jean Jeanneret
