Saas-Fee

France and Switzerland take lead spoils in Saas-Fee

An enthralling UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup was served this weekend in Saas-Fee, Switzerland, by 125 athletes from 20 countries. The 12 medals saw a perfect split between climbers from European member federations – hosts Switzerland (2), France (2), Liechtenstein (1), Czechia (1) and by Asian member federations – Iran (1), Mongolia (2), South Korea (3).

For the organizers in Saas-Fee, supported by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC), it was a poignant weekend. The hosts marked the 25-year anniversary of welcoming competition ice climbing to the resort while remembering one of the architects of that feat –  Dario Andenmatten who tragically passed away in October. Dario was a pioneer in the creation and evolution of ice climbing events in Saas-Fee. The UIAA presented the organizers with a certificate of appreciation in recognition for 25 years of hosting a diverse array of competitions – notably World Cups, World Championships and World Youth Championships.

The lead finals, as is tradition, concluded a thrilling final day. With spectators packing ever vantage point, climbers were given extra inspiration as they scaled one of the World Tour’s most vertical routes.

In the women’s event, eight athletes from six countries contested the final. Incredibly five would top the route, meaning the medal places came down to who ascended fastest. The tightest gap proved to be for the bronze medal position where reigning world champion Woonseon Shin (KOR) pipped Catalina Shirley (USA) by a mere two seconds. After failing to medal in her home event last time out, Shin took her first podium finish of the season. The gold and silver places were contested by two Swiss athletes – Sina Goetz (photo, above) and Franziska Schönbächler. Goetz, gold medal winner in Round 1 in South Korea prevailed, completing the route with a little over 90 seconds to spare. Schönbächler, third in the World Championships last year, had been the fastest in the semi-finals and silver caps an impressive weekend. With two gold medals, Goetz leads the overall standings following two flawless performances.


Lead Finals: Replay

The men’s final was contested by eight athletes from four countries. And like the women’s event, the top two went to the same national team. In fact, to the same family. Louna Ladevant (main photo), the dominant force in men’s lead ice climbing, during the 2022 and 2023 seasons, returned to form to seal gold as the only athlete to top the route. In doing so he denied his older brother Tristan a first ever World Cup gold. Ahead of next weekend’s competition on their home ice tower, an impressive statement from the Ladevant brothers. Bronze medal went to Younggeon Lee, one of three third places for the South Korean team. After two rounds Lee leads the World Tour as only athlete to medal in both competitions.

The speed competition in its fastest time wins, athlete against the clock format, was entirely held on Friday evening. With a blistering ascent of the 15m wall in 7.67 seconds, Iran’s Mohammadreza Safdarian took gold for the second week running to retain leadership of the World Tour. Mongolia’s Mandakhbayar Chuluunbaatar, 8.25, and South Korea’s Joon Kyu Park, 8.53 claimed silver and bronze.


Speed Finals: Replay

Mongolia would go one better in the women’s competition. Selenge Nyamdoo’s ascent in 11.83 pulverised the competition. Adding to her silver in Cheongsong, she now leads the World Tour rankings. Lea Beck (LIE), took silver in 14.28, and reigning world champion Aneta Louzecka (CZE), bronze with a time of 15.31.

The UIAA thanks the local organizers in Saas-Fee as well as the SAC and all bodies involved in the exceptional delivery of the event and looks forward to future collaboration. The UIAA delegation at the event included Honorary Member and former President Frits Vrijlandt, CEO Nils Glatthard and three office staff – Rob Adie (Sport Events Coordinator), Carol Kahoun (Project Manager) and Philippe Quintart (Mountain Safety Project Manager). International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) President Urs Wellauer and IFMGA Secretary Christoph Schaub were also in attendance.

Full results, and the latest World Tour rankings are on the UIAA Ice Climbing website.

The turnaround to the next competition, round 3 of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour in Champagny-en-Vanoise, France, is a short one with action taking place between 30 January and 1 February.  A preview of the event will be published on Wednesday 29 January.

Whilst the World Cup competition was taking place in the Swiss Alps, the North American Continental Open was staged in Ouray, Colorado. Keenan Griscom and Sara Lilley took the gold medals at an event which acts as a something of a precursor for rounds 4 and 5 of the World Tour which will take place in North America. An impressive 54 athletes representing Canada and the United States took part.

Assets for Media and Fans

Short-form content, highlights, podium posts and updates are available on the UIAA social media channels, notably Facebook and Instagram.

Event photos are available on the UIAA Flickr channel.

Live results are available from the UIAA Ice Climbing website.

A selection of ‘best of’ photos for media, prepared for the 2024-2025 season, can be found here.

Press releases will be available for all World Cup events, both previews (-3 days before) and reviews (day +1). Please subscribe to receive press releases directly to your inbox.

Please visit iceclimbing.sport for all event information, details on event programmes and timings, athlete registrations, live results and more.

UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR PARTNER

Photos: UIAA/Kaspar Kellerhals

 

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